5 Innovative Formulations with Estogel® Max

EstoGel® Max is a revolutionary oil rheology modifier crafted from a unique combination of two castor oil derivatives. This advanced polymer can gel oils across a wide viscosity range, from liquid to solid, and is effective with both polar and apolar oils, producing clear gels with excellent suspending abilities. The blend of two different thickeners ensures an optimal balance of mechanical properties and texture. Thickening occurs through a self-assembly mechanism and hydrogen bonding, making EstoGel® Max an exceptional ingredient for creating versatile and stable cosmetic formulations.

Rheology modifiers play a crucial role in cosmetic formulations, significantly impacting the texture, stability, and application experience of the final product. These essential ingredients control the flow and viscosity of formulations, allowing for the creation of products that are smooth, spreadable, and pleasant to use. By adjusting the rheology, formulators can enhance the stability of emulsions, prevent ingredient separation, and ensure consistent performance across different batches. Moreover, rheology modifiers contribute to the sensory attributes of cosmetics, such as the silky feel of a lotion or the firm, yet spreadable consistency of a cream. Their ability to fine-tune these properties makes them indispensable for developing high-quality, effective, and luxurious cosmetic products that meet consumer expectations.

EstoGel® Max uses non-covalent interactions to create a supramolecular assembly, making it a standout in cosmetic technology. This advanced gel, developed from two groundbreaking patent families, forms through perfectly organized entities held together by intermolecular forces. This unique structure allows it to cover a wide range of viscosities, from thick liquids to solids, with excellent mechanical properties and suspensive capacities. Unlike waxes and butters, which create opaque formulations due to their crystallinity, EstoGel® Max uses hydrogen bonding to produce perfectly transparent structures. This works with a variety of oils with different polarities, ensuring your cosmetic products are both stable and clear, enhancing their overall performance and appeal.

EstoGel® Max combines the advantages of EstoGel® M and EstoGel® Green. The presence of two different types of hydrogen bonds gives this rheology modifier its unique properties. Here are the benefits of working with EstoGel® Max:

• Shear Thinning Gels: Results in shear thinning gels, allowing for sprayable and pumpable gels.

• Fragrance Gelling: Can effectively gel fragrances.

• Suspension Ability: Provides excellent suspension capabilities.

• Wax Crystallinity Reduction: Reduces wax crystallinity, enhancing application in sticks.

• Emulsion Stabilizer: Acts as an effective emulsion stabilizer.

• Natural Origin: Boasts a natural origin index (ISO 16128) of 0.94.

• Delicate Sensory Experience: Provides a fine, delicate, and silky sensory feel.

EstoGel® Max is a versatile and innovative ingredient that can be utilized in a wide range of cosmetic formulations. Its unique properties make it ideal for creating various product types that cater to different skincare and beauty needs. Some suggested applications of EstoGel® Max include:

• Anhydrous Gel: Perfect for creating clear, stable gels without the need for water.
• Anhydrous Serum: Ideal for lightweight, oil-based serums that deliver potent active ingredients.
• Crème: Enhances the texture and stability of rich, creamy formulations.
• Lotion: Improves the viscosity and feel of lightweight lotions.
• Spray: Enables the formulation of sprayable gels, providing easy application.
• Mask: Suitable for creating luxurious, hydrating masks with excellent suspension properties.
• Anhydrous Stick/Sunscreen: Reduces wax crystallinity for smoother application in stick and sunscreen products.

With EstoGel® Max, formulators can achieve a perfect balance of texture, stability, and sensory experience across a variety of cosmetic products.

To achieve optimal results with EstoGel® Max, follow these formulating guidelines:

• System Compatibility:
  • Can be used in both oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) systems.
  • Suitable for anhydrous serums, body oils, and anhydrous sticks.
• Aqueous Systems:
  • Can be used over a wide pH range.
• Mixing Instructions:
  • Add EstoGel® Max to the oil phase.
  • Heat to a minimum of 85°C and mix with a rotor stator for 30 minutes.
  • If using a less shear-intense process, increase the mixing temperature.
• Homogeneity and Cooling:
  • Check for homogeneity, then cool to room temperature under continued stirring.
  • The gel will be fully developed at room temperature after several hours.

By following these guidelines, you can ensure the successful incorporation of EstoGel® Max into your formulations, achieving the desired texture, stability, and performance.

Experience the ultimate in skincare luxury with Revival, a rich cream that envelops your skin in a velvety embrace. This formulation leaves a delicate sensory veil, providing a soothing touch that regenerates and revitalizes your skin. Ideal for those seeking a deeply nourishing and rejuvenating skincare solution, Revival delivers a transformative experience, leaving your skin feeling silky smooth and renewed.

Phase A

• Demineralized Water – 66.5%
• Preservatives – 0.80%

Phase B

• Glycerin – 3.00%
• Xanthan Gum – 0.20%

Phase C

• Estogel Max – 4.00%
• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – 15.00%
• Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil – 2.00%
• Macadamia Intergrifolia Seed Oil – 2.00%
• Montanov 68 MB – 4.00%

Phase D

• Gatuline In-Tense MB – 2.00%

Phase E

• Parfum Beausoleil – 0.50

Process

1. Add Phase A in the main beaker.
2. Premix Phase B and add it to Phase A while stirring.
3. Heat Phase A + B to 80°C.
4. In a secondary beaker, heat Phase C to 85°C and homogenize for 30 minutes.
5. Emulsify for 15 minutes
6. Cool down to 30-35°C, add Phase D, then Phase E

Benefits

• Rich Texture: Provides a luxurious feel without any greasiness.
• Emulsion Stabilizer: Ensures the cream remains perfectly blended.
• Velvety skin feel: Leaves skin feeling soft and smooth.

The ultimate in sun protection with a perfectly transparent finish. Featuring EstoGel® Max, this sunstick offers very high protection while remaining completely invisible on the skin. Its innovative formulation ensures an invisible, non-greasy finish, making it an ideal choice for daily sun protection that blends seamlessly with any skincare routine. Enjoy the confidence of superior sun defense without compromising on appearance.

Phase A

• Estogel Max – 50.00%
• Dibutyl Adipate – 6.40%
• Diisopropyl Adipate – 11.00%
• Dicaprylyl Carbonate – 1.90%
• Octocrylene – 9.00%
• Ethylhexyl Salicylate – 4.50%
• Ethylhexyl Triazone – 4.50%
• Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate – 9.00%
• Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Tiazine – 2.70%

Phase B

• Parfum Monoi – 1.00%

Process

1.  Heat Phase A to 85°C and homogenize for 30 minutes.
2. Cool down to 80°C.
3. Add Phase B and mix for 5 minutes.
4. Pour into suitable packaging.

Benefits

• Easy Formulation: Transparent stick that is easy to formulate at 85°C.
• Delicate Sensory Experience: Provides a sensorial and delicate touch on the skin.

A luxurious dry oil featuring the innovative EstoGel® Max. This exquisite product showcases levitating petals and pearls, creating a mesmerizing visual experience. Designed to provide a silky, non-greasy finish, Oriental Flowers envelops your skin in a delicate veil of moisture, leaving it soft and radiant. Indulge in the captivating beauty and sensorial delight of this unique formulation, perfect for those seeking a touch of elegance in their skincare routine.

Phase A

• Estogel Max – 1.25%
• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – 11.35%
• Coco-Caprylate Caprate – 25.00%
• Isopropyl Palmitate – 25.00%
• Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil – 32.00%

Phase B

• Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil – 5.00%

Phase C

• Petals – 0.17%
• Sunshine Ultra Glitter Golden – 0.03%

Phase D

• Parfum Beausoleil – 0.40%

Process

1. Heat Phase A to 85°C and homogenize for 30 minutes.
2. Cool down to 80°C.
3. Add Phase B and stir for 5 minutes.
4. Cool down to 30-35°C while stirring.
5. Add Phase C and blend it.

Benefits

• Excellent Suspending Properties: Creates a captivating visual effect with levitating petals and pearls.
• Luxurious Texture: a slightly gelled oil that provides a luxurious, enveloping touch.

An ultra-shiny lipstick that redefines luxury and performance. Featuring the advanced EstoGel® Max, this innovative lipstick delivers an exceptionally glossy finish without the use of wax. Its unique formulation ensures a terrifically melting application, gliding effortlessly across your lips for a sumptuous, high-shine look. Rouge Vinyle offers the perfect combination of intense color and dazzling brilliance, making it an essential addition to any makeup collection.

Phase A

• Estogel Max – 55.00%
• Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Red6 – 3.20%
• Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Red7 – 12.80%
• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – 23.40%
• Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil – 5.00%

Phase B

• Parfum Vanille Gourmande – 0.60%

Process

1. Mix EstoGel® Max with the oils for 30 minutes at 85°C with a rotor stator.
2. Add the fragrance and homogenize.
3. Pour into a suitable mold

Benefits

• Wax-Free Solid Lipstick: Formulated without wax for a smooth texture.
• Melting Application: Glides on effortlessly for a terrifically melting application.
• Ultra-Shiny Finish: Provides an intense, high-shine result on the lips.

An ultra-fresh face jelly delicately infused with blue microspheres and featuring EstoGel® Max. This innovative serum offers a burst of hydration, delivering a cooling sensation upon application. The blue microspheres gently dissolve, releasing nourishing ingredients that leave your skin feeling refreshed and rejuvenated. Perfect for a morning pick-me-up or a mid-day refresh, this serum combines advanced skincare technology with a luxurious sensory experience, ensuring your skin looks and feels its best.

Phase A

• EstoGel® Max – 3.00%
• Squalane – 1.00%
• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – 5.50%
• Green (sol.5%) – 0.50%

Phase B

• Demineralized Water – 77.33%
• Propanediol – 5.00%
• Preservatives – 0.60%
• Carbomer – 0.18%

Phase C

• Fragrance – 0.50%

Phase D

• Glycerin – 5.00%
• Xanthan Gum – 0.20%

Phase E

• Sodium Xydroxide (sol.10%) – 0.22%

Process

1. Heat up A to 85°C under stirring with high shear.
2. At 85°C, disperse the polymer for 30 minutes with high shear.
3. Add B in the main beaker and heat up at 80°C under stirring.
4. Add C to A and mix until the blend is uniform.
5. Add A+C to B stirring with a very low shear (around 200rpm) for 10 minutes.
6. Cool down slowly to 35°C Add D and mix until the blend is uniform.
7. Neutralize the Carbomer with E.

Benefits

• Innovative Texture: Creation of oily micro-droplets for a unique and refreshing texture.
• Encapsulation Technology: Maximizes the potency of active ingredients for enhanced skincare benefits.

A sheer and lightweight oil that leaves your skin soft and supple. Infused with EstoGel® Max, this luxurious body oil imparts a beautiful rose gold tone, making you feel like the Sun Goddess you are. Perfect for adding a touch of shimmer and elegance, this oil not only nourishes your skin but also enhances its natural radiance, giving you a stunning, glowing finish.

Phase A

• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – 49.00%
• Diisopropyl Adipate – 9.25%
• Siclone SR-5 – 10.00%
• Estogel Max – 1.50%
• Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil – 18.00%
• Indopol® H-100 – 10.00%
• Glyceryl Caprylate – 1.00%
• VITAMIN E (ALL-RAC-A-TOCOPHERYL ACETATE) – 0.20%

Phase B

• ARCOPEARL® SPARKLE 410 – 0.30%
• ARCOPEARL® SPARKLE 450 – 0.30%
• ARCOPEARL® 1060T WR – 0.35%

Process

1. In a beaker, add all ingredients in Phase A and heat to 85C for approximately 30 minutes or until uniform and Estogel® Max has melted.
2. Mix pigment together adn add to oil base.
3. Allow to cool to RT while mixing so pigment remains suspended. 

Estogel® Max is truly a versatile and innovative ingredient that elevates cosmetic formulations to new heights. From the luxurious Revival cream to the clear sunstick, and from the mesmerizing Shimmer Body oil to the ultra-shiny Rouge Vinyle lipstick, Estogel® Max brings unique textures, superior stability, and exceptional sensory experiences to a wide range of products. Its advanced technology and easy processing make it an invaluable tool for formulators looking to create high-quality, effective, and aesthetically pleasing cosmetics. We hope these 6 innovative formulations inspire you to explore the endless possibilities of Estogel® Max in your own creations, delivering unparalleled performance and beauty to your customers.