A Cosmetic Formulators Guide to Smart Polymers: Estogel and Expertgel Collections

Smart polymers, also known as stimuli-responsive polymers, have garnered significant attention in the cosmetic industry due to their unique ability to change properties in response to external stimuli such as temperature, pH, moisture, or light. This innovative class of materials has opened up new horizons for the development of advanced cosmetic products that can offer personalized and adaptive benefits. For instance, smart polymers can be used in skin care formulations to create products that adjust their moisturizing or sun protection properties based on environmental conditions, enhancing user experience and efficacy. Furthermore, their application extends to controlled release systems, enabling active ingredients to be delivered more effectively and precisely to the skin or hair, thus maximizing benefits while minimizing potential irritation or side effects. As consumer demand for high-performance, multifunctional, and tailored cosmetic products continues to rise, the importance of smart polymers in product formulation and innovation is set to grow, marking them as a key ingredient in the future landscape of cosmetic science.

In an era increasingly defined by eco-anxiety, the beauty industry is witnessing a significant shift towards natural skincare, makeup, and haircare trends that go beyond mere appearances to embody deep-seated values of sustainability and eco-consciousness. Today's consumers are more informed and discerning than ever before, demanding products that not only promise green credentials but also deliver on effectiveness without compromising on environmental integrity. This evolution marks a transition from viewing sustainability as a mere option to recognizing it as an indispensable norm. As a result, beauty brands are under pressure to adopt a more holistic approach to beauty, one that harmonizes the efficacy of their products with the imperative to minimize environmental impact. This paradigm shift is not just about adhering to eco-friendly practices but about embracing a comprehensive ethos that values transparency, ethical sourcing, and the lifecycle impact of products, signaling a profound change in how beauty and personal care are perceived and consumed in the contemporary world.

The beauty and personal care industry has seen a remarkable surge in the focus on sustainability, particularly within the suncare segment. In 2022, an impressive 34% of suncare product launches were accompanied by sustainable claims, a significant increase from just 8% in 2018. This dramatic rise reflects a broader shift in consumer expectations and industry standards towards environmental stewardship and ethical responsibility. The growing prevalence of sustainable claims in suncare launches underscores the industry's response to heightened consumer awareness and demand for products that not only protect the skin from harmful UV rays but also safeguard the planet. Brands are increasingly prioritizing eco-friendly formulations, packaging, and sourcing practices, highlighting a commitment to reducing environmental impact without compromising on product efficacy. This trend is indicative of a deeper, industry-wide transformation towards embracing sustainability as a core aspect of product innovation and market differentiation, aligning with the global momentum towards more conscious consumption practices.

In recent years, there has been a noticeable shift in consumer behavior within the beauty industry, characterized by a more informed and proactive approach to product selection. A striking 54% of US consumers now delve into researching the ingredients used in beauty products, aiming to comprehend their effectiveness and impact on health and wellness. This surge in ingredient literacy underscores a broader movement towards transparency and informed decision-making in the beauty sector. Consumers are no longer passive recipients of marketing messages but are actively seeking out information that can guide their purchases towards products that are not only effective but also safe and aligned with their values. This trend is driving beauty brands to prioritize clarity and honesty in their formulations and marketing practices, fostering a culture of trust and accountability. As this empowered consumer base continues to grow, the beauty industry is evolving to meet the demands for products that offer both efficacy and integrity, marking a significant shift towards more conscientious beauty consumption.

In a revealing insight into the collective consciousness of American consumers, a recent survey indicates that 49% of adults in the US are experiencing a sense of guilt over their unsustainable habits and behaviors. This phenomenon, often referred to as "eco-guilt," highlights a growing awareness and concern among the population regarding the environmental impact of their daily choices. From excessive use of single-use plastics to carbon-heavy commuting patterns, individuals are becoming increasingly cognizant of how their lifestyles contribute to environmental degradation. This self-awareness is not just a reflection of changing social norms around sustainability but also signals a potential tipping point in consumer behavior. With nearly half of the adult population feeling remorseful about their environmental footprint, there's a clear indication of a readiness to shift towards more eco-friendly practices. This sentiment is pushing both individuals and companies to rethink and innovate in ways that align with a more sustainable future, suggesting that eco-guilt could indeed be a catalyst for significant environmental change.

In the quest for sustainable solutions that do not compromise on efficiency or versatility, smart polymers emerge as a beacon of innovation in various industries, including cosmetics. Here’s why smart polymers are becoming the go-to choice for forward-thinking companies and consumers alike:

• Eco-Friendly: Smart polymers stand out for their minimal environmental impact, offering a sustainable alternative to traditional materials.
• Wide Variety of Applications: From skincare formulations to packaging solutions, smart polymers' versatility allows them to be integrated into a diverse range of products.
• Naturally Derived and Clean Synthetic Options: They are available in up to 100% naturally derived forms as well as clean synthetic variations, catering to the demand for clean and green beauty.
• Unique Textures: These polymers provide unique textures that enhance the consumer experience, enabling the creation of innovative products that stand out in the market.
• Respecting the Planet: Their development and use take into consideration the health of our planet, aligning product innovation with environmental stewardship.
• Oil and Water Phase Compatibility: Smart polymers can be formulated for use in either oil or water phases, making them adaptable to a wide range of cosmetic products.

The cosmetic industry is constantly in search of innovative materials that not only enhance product performance but also align with sustainability goals. Among the latest advancements, two versatile options stand out for their unique properties and eco-friendly credentials: Expertgel and Estogel. Each offers a distinctive approach to solving common formulation challenges while prioritizing environmental responsibility.

• Liquid to Gel Transformation: Expertgel exhibits a remarkable ability to remain in liquid form at low concentrations in water at room temperature. With an increase in temperature, it transitions into a gel, showcasing its thermo-sensitive characteristics.
• Reversible Gelation: This unique property ensures that gelation is not only adjustable but also reversible, allowing for innovative application methods and user experiences.
• Adjustable Properties: The flexibility in gelation provides formulators with the ability to tailor the texture and viscosity of cosmetic products according to specific needs.

• High Natural Content: Estogel is engineered with a high percentage of naturalness, making it an ideal choice for replacing macromolecules derived from fossil sources.
• Eco-Friendly Alternative: As an alternative to conventional polymers, Estogel offers a sustainable solution for formulating products that are kinder to the planet.
• Versatile Application: This polymer is particularly suited for creating stable, gelled oil phases, enhancing the sensory experience of skincare and makeup products without compromising on environmental values.

Expertgel represents a groundbreaking advancement in the realm of thermosensitive polymers, offering a unique solution to formulators in the cosmetic and personal care industry. These innovative polymers possess the remarkable ability to transition from a liquid state to a gel as temperatures rise, a feature particularly beneficial in low water concentrations at room temperature. This transformation is not only reversible but also adjustable, providing unparalleled flexibility in the development of skincare and beauty products. The magic of Expertgel lies in its capacity to adapt to temperature changes, allowing for dynamic formulations that can offer consumers a unique and interactive experience. Whether aiming to create products that change texture upon application or seeking to improve the stability and delivery of active ingredients, Expertgel's thermosensitive properties open up new possibilities for enhancing product performance and sensory appeal. As we delve deeper into the capabilities of Expertgel, it's clear that this thermosensitive polymer is set to revolutionize product formulations, making it an essential tool for innovators looking to push the boundaries of cosmetic science.

• Intelligent Gelling Agent: Changes viscosity depending on temperature: liquid at room temperature, gel upon application.
• Sprayable Product: liquid in packaging, easy to spray and surprises by gelling on contact with the skin.
•  Emulsion Stabilizer: Formulas containing ExpertGel are less sensitive to temperature shifting due to the viscous effect.
• Viscosity Controller: The addition of ExpertGel ensures a constant viscosity when hot by compensating for the loss in viscosity typically seen at high temperatures.
• Changing Texture: Formulas can become chameleon-like due to the effect of this polymer. Sprayable liquid formulas turn into rich, creamy creams upon spreading.
• Film Forming Agent: Forms a soft, powdery film close to a silicone feel. 
• SPF Booster/Water Resistance: Provides optimal distribution on the skin’s surface and keeps the formula on the surface of the skin reducing skin penetration.
• Long-Lasting Effect: It’s ability to film on the surface of the skin allows the fragrance molecules in scented formulas to be coated and gradually released.
• Pigment Distribution: ExpertGel ensures better pigment distribution in tinted emulsions and guarantees a higher coverage.

Water Phase Process

•  In oil to water emulsions, Expertgel can be dissolved in water before making the formulation. Add the premix solution of ExpertGel at the end of the process below 45°C with continuous mixing until the product is completely incorporated to the emulsion.
  • Formulator to Formulator: The colder the water, the faster the solubilization.

Oil Phase Process

• Add ExpertGel into the oil phase, heat up to 70°C minimum until the ExpertGel is solubilized into the oil phase creating the emulsion. The polymer will migrate to the water phase during the emulsification process.

Tips to Ensure Good Dispersion for Formula Oil Phase

1. Swell ExpertGel in good solvent oils.
2. Heat up to 75°C, then add easy to disperse oils.
3. Add the other oil phase components.
4. Prepare your emulsion as usual.
5. Add low compatible oils at the very last moment during the emulsification process.

Skin Care Creams: 

• Texturizing Agent: Expertgel offers formulators the unique ability to fine-tune the cream's consistency and feel, providing a customizable experience that caters to diverse consumer preferences.
•  Film Former: Its role as a film-former introduces a protective layer upon application, effectively sealing in moisture and active ingredients for enhanced skin hydration and nutrient delivery.
• Thermo Gelation: Ensures that the cream can adapt its texture from a soothing, lightweight liquid at lower temperatures to a rich, comforting gel as it warms on the skin.

Hair Styling Agent:

• Texturizing Agent: By incorporating Expertgel, formulators can create products that not only provide superior hold and texture but also adapt to temperature variations, allowing for dynamic styling options.

Suncare Creams:

• SPF Booster: Expertgel contributes to the efficacy of suncare creams by enhancing SPF values, providing better skin protection against harmful UV rays through its unique interaction with UV filters.
• Film Former: As a film-former, Expertgel creates a uniform layer on the skin, ensuring even distribution of the sunscreen for comprehensive coverage and enhanced sun protection.
• Water Resistance: Expertgel's properties improve the water resistance of suncare products, ensuring that the sunscreen remains effective during activities like swimming or sweating, offering consumers reliable sun protection in various conditions.

Lip Color Products

•  Thermo-Gelling Agent: Expertgel enables lip color products to achieve a unique texture that responds to temperature changes, enhancing application experience and allowing for a smoother, more even spread on the lips.
• Film Former: In lip color formulations, Expertgel acts as an effective film-former, creating a durable layer that helps retain color and moisture, ensuring long-lasting wear and minimizing smudging or fading.

Skin Serums and Splashes

• Thermo-Gelation: Expertgel undergoes a transformative gelation process upon contact with the skin, triggered by body temperature, to deliver a unique sensory experience and enhanced absorption of active ingredients.

Fragranced Gel Products

• Texturizing Agent: Expertgel adds a unique textural dimension to fragranced gel products, transforming them into sensory delights with a smooth, luxurious feel that enhances the overall user experience.
•  Long Lasting Effect: By acting as a stabilizer and enhancer, Expertgel helps to prolong the fragrance release, ensuring that the scent remains vibrant and enduring, keeping the wearer enveloped in their chosen aroma for extended periods.

Cationic Hair Dye Serum: Our Cationic Hair Dye Serum was designed to leave hair feeling soft, comb-able and smooth after color application. This unique color serum provides bright, bold, and even color deposition throughout hair. Thanks to its unique cationic structure, our hair dye serum binds to hair quickly during application with a process time of only 5-10 minutes, resulting in impactful, bold, beautiful color. Color can last between 1-8 washes.

Ultra Grip Face Primer: A gelled makeup primer that reduces the appearance of pores, fine lines, and wrinkles. Our sensorial primer has everything your skin needs. Infused with Sodium Hyaluronate and Pellicer L-30 for a boost of moisturization, Expert Gel 412 provides a smooth, even, primed skin surface, and a unique combination of Aqupec MG N40R, Serisense SM9, and Serisense SM13 deliver a soft-focused, blurred finish on skin.

Barbie Brows Eyebrow Gel: Lightweight clear brow gel that sets and holds brow hair in place for a clean, polished look that lasts. 

Barbie Core Pink Temporary Hair Dye: Barbie Core Hair – Pink Temporary Hair Dye Foam is easy to use and leaves hair feeling soft, easy to comb and smooth after color application. Color deposition is bright, bold, and even throughout hair. Due to the cationic nature, the Dyes and Serum combined show excellent affinity to hair during application with a minimal leave on time of 5-10 minutes resulting in impactful color deposition. Color can last between 1-8 washes.

Volumizing Scalp Serum: Volumizing Scalp Serum is packed with ingredients that mimic ceramides found naturally in skin to help improve scalp moisture barrier function and moisture protection. Lightweight formula that helps to smooth out cuticles and helps improve hair strength from the root. Thermally activated ingredients will make the serum thicken slightly to help keep the serum on your scalp, where it belongs!

Ultra Grip Primer: A silky makeup primer that reduces the appearance of pores, fine lines, and wrinkles. Sodium Hyaluronate and Pellicer L-30 provide moisturization while the combination of Aqupec MG N40R with either Serisense SM9, Anybes or Ganzpearl GM0600 gives a soft-focused, blurred effect. ExpertGel 412 leaves skin smooth, even and primed.

Estogel stands at the forefront of sustainable innovation as a bio-based oil gelling polymer characterized by its high degree of naturalness, making it an ideal replacement for macromolecules derived from fossil origins. Crafted from castor oil, a renewable resource, Estogel exemplifies the shift towards greener, more environmentally friendly cosmetic formulations. This innovative polymer not only enhances the texture and stability of products but also aligns with the growing consumer demand for beauty solutions that are both effective and eco-conscious. By integrating Estogel into their formulations, brands can offer consumers products that are in harmony with nature without compromising on performance, marking a significant step forward in the pursuit of sustainable beauty.

• Oil Gelling: Forms perfectly transparent gels in most polar to medium polar oils; vegetable oils or esters for example.
• More than 90% biobased according to ISO 16128 Standard: This high naturalness is an asset in current formulations. 
• Transparent & Suspensory Gels: Pearls no longer settle to the bottom of the packaging, even in particularly fluid formulations. 
• Fragrance Gelation: Estogel allows to form solid transparent gels in pure perfume opening many creative applications in this sector.
• Emulsion Stabilization: Estogel stabilizes emulsions.
• Sensoriality: Thanks to a neutral and gentle sensory, it can be incorporated into all types of oily textures, from fluid jelly to lipstick.
• Crystallization Control: This polymer also helps control the crystallization of waxes and crystalline molecules (sunscreens) which can help improve the durability of some reputedly fragile formulas. Makes it possible to create varied and original formulas: oily gels, pearlescent gels, rich and creamy serums, anhydrous foundation, lipsticks, transparent sticks, silicone-free skincare products, transparent melting balms, but also emulsions with improved sensory.

Estogel M, a cutting-edge biobased high-performance polymer, is revolutionizing the way formulators approach product development by offering unparalleled control over the desired rheology of cosmetic formulations. Tailored for those seeking eco-friendly yet effective solutions, Estogel M empowers creators to fine-tune the viscosity and texture of their products, ensuring optimal performance and user experience. Its bio-origin, stemming from sustainable resources, further underscores the commitment to environmental stewardship while meeting the industry's demand for greener, high-quality formulation ingredients.

• Processing Guidelines
  • Introduce Estogel M into the oil phase and heat to 100°C with stirring. Once Estogel M is dissolved, ensure a perfect dispersion of the polymer by stirring for 30 minutes. Cool down to room temperature. The gel needs several hours to reach the optimum viscosity.
• Ingredient Highlights
  • Supramolecular Chemistry: Utilizes the principles of supramolecular chemistry to form complex structures that enhance product stability and performance.
  • Emulsion Stabilization: Offers exceptional emulsion stabilization, ensuring that formulations remain homogeneous over time.
  • Shear Thinning: Exhibits shear-thinning properties, which facilitate easier application while maintaining the product's integrity.
  • Thick and Strong Gel Structures: Capable of forming thick and strong gel structures, providing a robust base for a variety of cosmetic products.
  • Excellent Sensory Sprayable Gels: Enables the creation of sprayable gels with superior sensory qualities, enhancing the user experience.
  • High Suspending Capability: Demonstrates a high suspending capability, ideal for formulations that contain particulates or active ingredients that need to be evenly distributed.
  • Creates Transparent Texture: Offers the ability to create transparent textures, adding to the aesthetic appeal of the final product.

• Processing Guidelines
  • Introduce EMC30 into the oil phase and heat to 80°C with constant stirring. Once the polymer is dissolved, ensure a good dispersion by stirring for 30 minutes. The gel needs several hours to reach the final viscosity.
•  Ingredient Highlights
  •  Formulation Ease: Simplifies the formulation process with a lowered processing temperature requirement of 80°C, making it more energy-efficient and gentle for sensitive ingredients.
  • Supramolecular Chemistry: Utilizes advanced supramolecular structures to enhance product stability and performance.
  • Emulsion Stabilization: Offers robust emulsion stabilization, ensuring uniform and stable product textures.
  •  Shear Thinning: Exhibits shear-thinning properties, facilitating easier application and spreadability on the skin.
  • Thick and Strong Gel Structures: Capable of forming thick and robust gel structures, providing a solid framework for various cosmetic formulations.
  •  Excellent Sensory Sprayable Gels: Enhances the sensory experience with sprayable gels that leave a pleasant, non-sticky feel on the skin.
  • High Suspending Capability: Ideal for formulations requiring the suspension of active ingredients or decorative particles, ensuring even distribution and consistency.
  • Creates Transparent Texture: Achieves clear and transparent textures, perfect for creating aesthetically appealing cosmetic products.

Estogel Green emerges as a pioneering solution in the realm of natural cosmetics, setting a new standard for sustainability without compromising on efficacy. As a 100% natural gelling agent, it embodies the perfect marriage of naturalness and performance, designed to meet the evolving challenges of tomorrow's beauty industry. This innovative ingredient addresses the growing demand for products that are not only environmentally friendly but also deliver exceptional results. Estogel Green allows formulators to create textures that appeal to conscious consumers, offering them the peace of mind that comes with using products aligned with their values. In doing so, Estogel Green paves the way for a new generation of cosmetics that prioritize both the planet's health and the user's satisfaction.

• Processing Guidelines
  • Introduce Estogel® Green into the oil phase and heat to 80°C with constant stirring. Once the polymer is dissolved, ensure a good dispersion by stirring for 20 minutes. The gel needs several hours to reach the optimum viscosity.
• Ingredient Highlights
  • Reversible Bonds: Offers dynamic adaptability in formulations, enabling innovative texture transformations.
  • Lowered Process Temperature Advantage: Facilitates energy-efficient production processes, enhancing sustainability.
  • Formulation Versatility: Compatible with a wide range of cosmetic applications, from skincare to haircare.
  •  Ideal for Minimalist Products: Supports clean beauty trends by enabling simpler, more natural formulations.
  • Gels Oils of Different Polarities: Demonstrates exceptional compatibility and effectiveness across various oil phases.
  • Transparent and Sprayable Gel: Creates visually appealing, easy-to-apply gels with a luxurious feel.
  • High Suspensive Capability: Efficiently suspends particles and actives, ensuring even distribution and performance.

Estogel Max emerges as a game-changer in the world of cosmetic formulation, serving as an advanced oil rheology modifier designed to enhance the stability and texture of oily gel structures. Its introduction simplifies the formulation process by replacing the need for both Estogel M and Estogel Green, enabling formulators to achieve an optimized texture with a single product. Not only does Estogel Max streamline product development, but it also boasts an ease of use with a lower processing temperature requirement compared to Estogel M. This innovative ingredient represents a significant advancement in formulation technology, offering both efficiency and superior performance in creating luxurious, stable, and texturally refined cosmetic products.

•  Ingredient Highlights
  • ISO 16128 Natural Origin Index: 0.95
  • Rheology: Fluid to solid
  • Mechanical Properties: not too brittle, not too elastic
  • Oil compatibility: polar to apolar
  • Processing Temperature: 85°C

• Fragranced Gel Products
  • Creates gel in high fragrance concentrations
  • Dry and volatile solvents
• Skin Care Creams
  • Thickener
  • Sensorial Feel
• Body Oils
  • Particle suspension
  • Versatile oil
  • Compatibility
  • Allows for transparency
• Sun Care
  • Enhanced spreadability
  • Allows for transparency when used with organic sunscreens
  • Compatible with mineral sunscreens
• Facial Serums
  •  Particle suspension
  •  Versatile oil compatibility
  • Prevents drops from dripping
•  Hair Styling Products
  • Texturizing agent
  •  Light gel sensory
• Lip Color Products
  • Better deposition
  • Creamy sensorial

Estogel Texture Kit: Our EstoGel® Texture Kit showcases the different textures created when combining different levels of rheology modifiers.

Frizz Reducing Hair Oil: Our silicone free hair oil was designed to leave hair looking and feeling its best. Formulated with Siclone SR-5, a D5 alternative, hair is left feeling soft and smooth. This weightless fast absorbing serum works to minimize frizz and block humidity all while delivering silky shine to your locks.

Illuminating Lip Balm: Our silky, illuminating lip balm is infused with Arcopearl ™ FEHD for a beautiful glow on lips. Formulated with Chiffonsil P3-R, leaving lips feeling soft and smooth on application, and a combination of EstoGel Green and EMC30 for an ultimate sensorial texture.

Baby Pink Cream to Powder Blush: This cream to powder blush pops on the cheeks with the perfect touch of pink. Cheeks left feeling soft & smooth. Formulated with EstoGel Green, for a unique sensory feel, and Satin B UVS, Spheron L1500 and Sericite PHN for a light powdery setting.

Contour Stick: This contour stick helps you achieve a perfectly defined look by darkening areas of your face to help enhance your natural features to create a flawless finished look. Bismica and Bismica MAX pigments provide color and great adhesion, while Arcopearl Matte delivers superior mattifying and sensorial properties that leaves skin feeling soft and looking smooth.

Red Pop Lip and Cheek Tint Gel: This multi-purpose tint gel gives the skin a pop of color with a hint of a glow for the lip and cheeks. It contains a combination of EstoGel Green and EMC30 which gives an unique rheology and texture properties. Arcopearl ™ Sparkle 411-N provides the illuminating glow with Satinier M-5 leaving lips and cheeks feeling soft and smooth like satin.

The exploration of smart polymers like Expertgel, Estogel, and their specialized variants—Estogel M, Estogel Green, and Estogel Max—reveals a fascinating evolution in cosmetic formulation technology. These advanced materials are not just revolutionizing product development with their unique properties and functionalities, but they are also leading the charge towards a more sustainable, efficient, and consumer-centric beauty industry. From enhancing the sensory experience of skincare and makeup products to achieving unparalleled texture and stability in formulations, smart polymers offer formulators the tools to meet and exceed modern consumer expectations. Moreover, their eco-friendly profiles and versatility further align with the growing demand for products that are both effective and conscientious of environmental impact. As the cosmetic industry continues to innovate, the adoption and application of smart polymers underscore a commitment to excellence, sustainability, and the future of beauty. This exciting journey into the capabilities and potential of smart polymers only hints at the broader possibilities awaiting discovery and implementation in the quest for better, greener, and more adaptive cosmetic solutions.