How to Add SPF Boosters to Sun Care Formulations

Incorporating SPF boosters into skincare and sunscreen formulations is a strategic approach to enhancing the effectiveness of sun protection products. SPF boosters work synergistically with traditional UV filters to improve their efficacy, stability, and overall performance. By carefully selecting and integrating these boosters, formulators can create sunscreens that offer superior UV protection, a pleasant sensory experience, and additional skin benefits. This blog will delve into the importance of SPF boosters, the types available, and how to effectively incorporate them into your formulations to meet consumer demands for high-quality sun care products.

Understanding SPF Boosters

SPF boosters are specialized ingredients added to sunscreen formulations to enhance the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) without significantly increasing the concentration of traditional UV filters. These boosters work by various mechanisms to improve the effectiveness and stability of sunscreens, making them more efficient in protecting the skin from harmful UV radiation.

What Are SPF Boosters?

SPF boosters are compounds that complement the action of UV filters, such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, avobenzone, and octocrylene, by increasing their efficiency. Unlike primary UV filters, which directly absorb or reflect UV radiation, SPF boosters enhance the overall performance of these filters through different pathways.

How SPF Boosters Function

  1. Improved Dispersion of UV Filters
    • SPF boosters help in the even distribution of UV filters throughout the sunscreen formulation. By ensuring that UV filters are uniformly dispersed, these boosters enable consistent and effective coverage on the skin. Ingredients like silica and certain polymers aid in achieving a homogeneous mixture, which enhances the protective barrier against UV rays.
  2. Increased Absorption and Retention
    • Some SPF boosters enhance the absorption and retention of UV filters on the skin. For example, emollients such as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Squalane improve the spreadability and adherence of sunscreens, ensuring that the UV filters remain on the skin surface for extended periods. This results in prolonged protection and increased efficacy of the sunscreen.
  3. Additional UV Scattering and Reflection
    • Physical SPF boosters like micronized powders and reflective particles (e.g., silica, titanium dioxide) contribute to the scattering and reflection of UV radiation. These boosters provide an additional layer of defense by reflecting UV rays away from the skin, complementing the primary action of UV filters.
  4. Synergistic Effects with UV Filters
    • Certain SPF boosters have synergistic effects when combined with UV filters. Antioxidants like Vitamin E (Tocopherol) and Green Tea Extract not only provide protection against free radical damage caused by UV exposure but also stabilize UV filters, preventing their degradation. This synergy enhances the overall SPF of the sunscreen and ensures long-lasting protection.
  5. Film Formation and Stability
    • SPF boosters can also contribute to the formation of a uniform film on the skin, improving the sunscreen’s water resistance and durability. Polymers and film-forming agents create a cohesive layer that holds UV filters in place, even during activities that involve water or sweating.

By leveraging these mechanisms, SPF boosters play a crucial role in creating sunscreens that offer superior protection, stability, and user experience. Formulators can achieve higher SPF levels with lower concentrations of UV filters, resulting in more effective and aesthetically pleasing sun care products.

Advantages of Using SPF Boosters

Incorporating SPF boosters into sunscreen formulations offers several significant advantages, enhancing the overall efficacy, stability, and sensory experience of sun care products. These benefits make SPF boosters an essential component in developing high-quality sunscreens that meet consumer expectations and regulatory standards.

Enhanced UV Protection

  1. Increased SPF Values: SPF boosters allow formulators to achieve higher SPF ratings without disproportionately increasing the concentration of traditional UV filters. This results in sunscreens that provide superior protection against both UVA and UVB radiation.
  2. Broad-Spectrum Coverage: By enhancing the performance of existing UV filters, SPF boosters contribute to more comprehensive UV protection. This ensures that the skin is better protected from the harmful effects of sun exposure, including sunburn, premature aging, and skin cancer.
  3. Consistent Protection: SPF boosters help in the even dispersion and stabilization of UV filters within the formulation. This uniform distribution ensures consistent application and effective coverage, minimizing the risk of unprotected areas.

Improved Formulation Stability

  1. Photostability: Many SPF boosters, such as antioxidants like Vitamin E and Green Tea Extract, enhance the photostability of UV filters. They prevent the breakdown of active ingredients upon exposure to sunlight, ensuring that the sunscreen maintains its protective efficacy throughout its use.
  2. Extended Shelf Life: By stabilizing UV filters and other sensitive ingredients, SPF boosters contribute to the overall stability and shelf life of the sunscreen. This results in a longer-lasting product that remains effective until the expiration date.
  3. Compatibility and Synergy: SPF boosters often exhibit synergistic effects with UV filters, enhancing their overall performance. They also help to improve the compatibility of various ingredients within the formulation, reducing the risk of separation or degradation.

Better Skin Feel

  1. Enhanced Sensory Experience: SPF boosters can improve the texture and sensory qualities of sunscreens. Ingredients like Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Squalane contribute to a smooth, non-greasy feel, making the sunscreen more pleasant to apply and wear.
  2. Reduced White Cast: Mineral sunscreens, which use zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, often leave a white cast on the skin. SPF boosters can help to minimize this effect by improving the dispersion and integration of these minerals, resulting in a more cosmetically elegant finish.
  3. Moisturizing and Skin Benefits: Many SPF boosters, such as Aloe Vera and Licorice Extract, offer additional skin benefits. They provide hydration, soothe irritation, and offer antioxidant protection, enhancing the overall skincare benefits of the sunscreen.

Enhanced Consumer Appeal

  1. Eco-Friendly Formulations: With the growing demand for environmentally friendly products, SPF boosters allow formulators to create sunscreens that are effective yet gentle on the skin and the environment. Natural and sustainable ingredients like Green Tea Extract and Sea Buckthorn Oil are particularly appealing to eco-conscious consumers.
  2. Innovation and Differentiation: Using SPF boosters enables formulators to innovate and differentiate their products in a competitive market. By offering sunscreens with enhanced protection, stability, and skin benefits, brands can attract and retain consumers seeking high-performance sun care solutions.

In summary, SPF boosters play a crucial role in enhancing the performance and appeal of sunscreens. They provide improved UV protection, formulation stability, and a better sensory experience, making them indispensable for formulators aiming to create top-tier sun care products.

Incorporating SPF Boosters in Sun Care Formulations

Effectively incorporating SPF boosters into sunscreen formulations requires careful consideration of ingredient compatibility, optimal concentrations, and overall formulation strategy. SPF boosters can significantly enhance the UV protection efficacy, stability, and sensory appeal of sunscreens, making them more attractive to consumers. Here’s how formulators can successfully integrate SPF boosters into their products:

Choosing the Right SPF Boosters

  1. Compatibility with UV Filters:
    • Ensure that the selected SPF boosters are compatible with the primary UV filters in the formulation, such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, avobenzone, or octocrylene. Compatibility testing is crucial to avoid adverse reactions and ensure that the ingredients work synergistically.
  2. Desired SPF Level:
    • Determine the target SPF level and select boosters that effectively enhance the overall UV protection. Common SPF boosters include antioxidants, film formers, and reflective particles. For example, antioxidants like Vitamin E and Green Tea Extract stabilize UV filters, while silica and polymer beads enhance light scattering and reflection.

Formulation Tips

  1. Optimal Concentrations:
    • Identify the effective concentration range for each SPF booster to achieve the desired SPF enhancement without compromising the product’s texture, stability, or sensory properties. Typically, SPF boosters are used in concentrations ranging from 1-10%.
  2. Ensuring Even Distribution:
    • Utilize high-shear mixing techniques and appropriate dispersing agents to ensure the uniform distribution of SPF boosters throughout the formulation. This helps in achieving consistent protection and avoiding areas of uneven coverage.

Testing for Efficacy

  1. SPF Testing:
    • Conduct in-vitro and in-vivo SPF testing to verify that the sunscreen meets the desired protection levels. Testing is essential to confirm that the SPF boosters are effectively enhancing the UV protection as intended.
  2. Photostability Testing:
    • Ensure that the formulation maintains its protective efficacy under UV exposure by conducting photostability testing. This step is crucial to demonstrate that the SPF boosters and UV filters remain stable and effective throughout the product’s use.

Let’s Make Beauty’s Top SPF Boosters

Luxsil® Al Free

 INCI: (Calcium Sodium Borosilicate)

LUXSIL® AL Free is a lightweight powder designed for optical blurring and detackifying in cosmetic formulations. Free from aluminum, it retains all the benefits and attributes of the original Luxsil, including soft focus benefits, SPF boosting properties, a soft skin feel, and detackifying effects. Ideal for a wide range of skincare and sun care products, LUXSIL® AL Free can be used at levels of 1-10%.

Key Benefits

  • Instant Skin Blurring Effect: Provides a soft focus benefit, instantly improving the appearance of the skin by minimizing the look of fine lines and imperfections.
  • SPF Boosting Efficacy: Enhances the SPF of formulations, contributing to better UV protection without needing to increase the concentration of traditional UV filters.
  • Enhanced Skin Feel and Texture: Delivers a soft, smooth skin feel and helps reduce tackiness, improving the overall sensory experience of the sunscreen.

SERISENSE™ COLLECTION

Serisense™SM 9

INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose

SeriSense™ SM 9 is a natural and biodegradable alternative to traditional plastic powders such as polyethylene. Derived from wood pulp, this innovative ingredient is perfect for various applications, including haircare, color cosmetics, skincare, and wrinkle fillers. Its sustainable nature aligns with the growing consumer demand for eco-friendly products, making it an excellent choice for formulators looking to reduce their environmental footprint.

Key Benefits:

  • Excellent Oil Absorption: SeriSense™ SM 9 excels at absorbing excess oil, making it ideal for formulations aimed at controlling shine and providing a matte finish.
  • Anti-Caking Properties: This ingredient helps prevent caking, ensuring a smooth, even application and enhancing the overall texture of the product.
  • Mattifying Properties: SeriSense™ SM 9 offers superb mattifying effects, perfect for creating products that leave a natural, shine-free finish on the skin.

Serisense™ SM 13

INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose

SeriSense™ SM 13 is a natural and biodegradable alternative to conventional plastic powders like Nylon-12 and PMMA, derived from wood pulp. This innovative ingredient is ideal for a variety of applications, including pressed powders, skincare, creams and lotions, color cosmetics, and sunscreens. Its sustainable nature and multifunctional benefits make it a valuable addition to any formulation, particularly for those seeking an eco-friendly approach.

Key Benefits:

  • Excellent Oil Absorption: SeriSense™ SM 13 is highly effective at absorbing excess oil, helping to control shine and provide a matte finish, which is especially beneficial in skincare and color cosmetics.
  • Anti-Caking Properties: It helps to prevent caking in pressed powders and other formulations, ensuring a smooth and even application for a flawless finish.
  • Mattifying Properties: This ingredient offers superb mattifying effects, creating products that leave a natural, shine-free finish on the skin.
  • SPF Boosting Effect: SeriSense™ SM 13 enhances the SPF of sunscreens, contributing to improved UV protection without the need for higher concentrations of traditional UV filters.

SeriSense™ SM 15

SeriSense SM™ 15 is a cutting-edge, natural, and biodegradable alternative to traditional sensory modifiers like PMMA, specifically designed for pressed powder applications. Derived from sustainable wood pulp, this innovative ingredient is perfect for a range of products, including pressed powders, skincare, creams and lotions, color cosmetics, and sunscreens. SeriSense™ SM 15 not only enhances product performance but also aligns with the growing consumer demand for eco-friendly and sustainable beauty solutions.

Key Benefits:

INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum

  • Equivalent Performance to PMMA: SeriSense™ SM 15 matches the performance of PMMA in pressed powder formulations, ensuring excellent pressability and product integrity.
  • High Spreadability: This ingredient enhances the spreadability of formulations, making application smoother and more even, which is crucial for achieving a flawless finish.
  • High Transparency: SeriSense™ SM 15 provides high transparency, allowing for a natural look and seamless blending in color cosmetics and skincare products.
  • Soft Feel: It delivers a luxurious, soft feel on the skin, enhancing the sensory experience for consumers.
  • SPF Boosting Effect: By incorporating SeriSense™ SM 15, sunscreens can achieve higher SPF values, offering better UV protection without increasing the concentration of traditional UV filters.

SILICA BALLOON BA4

INCI: Silica

Silica Balloon BA-4 is an advanced micro-balloon silica bead designed to elevate sunscreen formulations with its superior SPF boosting capabilities. With a light, soft texture and non-porous surface, Silica Balloon BA-4 ensures that the skin appears brighter and more radiant, without any dullness. Its high oil absorption capacity of 40 mL/100-gram powder and an average particle size of 4µm make it a versatile ingredient for various applications. Suitable for use levels between 1-10%, this innovative booster enhances both the efficacy and sensory experience of sun care products.

Key Benefits:

  • SPF Boosting Efficacy: Silica Balloon BA-4 significantly enhances the SPF of sunscreens, providing improved UV protection without the need to increase the concentration of traditional UV filters.
  • Improved Sensory Experience: The light and soft texture of Silica Balloon BA-4 contributes to a more pleasant application, making the sunscreen feel comfortable and luxurious on the skin.
  • Transparency on Skin: This ingredient remains transparent upon application, ensuring a universal appeal that suits all skin tones without leaving a white cast.
  • Brightening Effect: Its non-porous surface helps to avoid dullness, leaving the skin looking brighter and more vibrant.

Chiffonsil P3-R

INCI: Silica

Chiffonsil P3-R is a high-grade silica designed to elevate sunscreen and cosmetic formulations with its unique properties and low oil absorption. Known for providing a soft, smooth finish with a creamy texture, Chiffonsil P3-R significantly improves the sensory experience of products. Its superior slip and spreadability make it an excellent choice for various applications, particularly emulsions, where traditional silica might fall short. Suitable for use levels between 1-10%, this versatile ingredient is key to creating luxurious, high-performance formulations.

Key Benefits:

  • Enhanced Skin Feel: Chiffonsil P3-R imparts a soft and creamy texture, enhancing the overall skin feel and making products more pleasant to apply.
  • Smooth Skin Finish: This high-grade silica ensures a smooth finish, improving the appearance and texture of the skin.
  • Increased Spreadability: It offers superior slip and spreadability compared to standard-grade silica, facilitating an even and effortless application.
  • Low Oil Absorption: Ideal for emulsions and other formulations, Chiffonsil P3-R’s low oil absorption prevents products from feeling greasy, maintaining a lightweight and comfortable texture.

Spheron P1500-030

INCI: Silica (and) Methicone

Spheron P1500-030 is a hydrophobic, surface-treated silica designed to enhance sunscreen formulations with its moderate oil absorption capabilities, smooth feel, and matte finish. This innovative ingredient is ideal for achieving a balanced formulation that not only protects but also improves the appearance and texture of the skin. Suitable for use levels between 1-10%, Spheron P1500-030 offers several key benefits that make it a valuable addition to any sun care product.

Key Benefits:

  • Instant Soft-Focus Skin Blurring: Spheron P1500-030 provides immediate soft-focus and skin-blurring effects, minimizing the appearance of fine lines and imperfections for a smoother complexion.
  • SPF Boosting Efficacy: This ingredient enhances the SPF of sunscreens, contributing to improved UV protection without the need to increase the concentration of traditional UV filters.
  • Improved Sensory Experience: With its smooth feel and ability to deliver a matte finish, Spheron P1500-030 significantly enhances the sensory attributes of sunscreens, making them more pleasant to apply and wear.

Spheron 20MB

INCI: Silica

Spheron 20MB is a versatile silica microsphere that combines moderate oil absorption with exceptional sensory benefits, making it an ideal ingredient for advanced sunscreen formulations. With its ability to be dispersed in both water and oil, Spheron 20MB provides a smooth, soft feel, enhanced spreadability, and soft focus effects. It is particularly beneficial for formulations that aim to reduce tackiness and greasiness while boosting SPF. Suitable for use levels between 1-10%, Spheron 20MB is a valuable addition to any sun care product lineup.

Key Benefits:

  • Smooth, Soft Feel: Spheron 20MB imparts a luxurious, smooth, and soft texture to formulations, enhancing the overall sensory experience.
  • Increases Slip and Spreadability: It improves the spreadability of products, ensuring even application and a pleasant user experience.
  • Reduces Tackiness and Greasiness: This ingredient helps to reduce the tacky and greasy feel often associated with sunscreens, making them more comfortable to wear.
  • Soft Focus Enhancement: Provides soft focus effects that blur imperfections, giving the skin a flawless appearance.
  • SPF Boosting: Spheron 20MB enhances the SPF efficacy of sunscreens, contributing to better UV protection.
  • Natural Origin Index (ISO 16128): 1: Meets the standards for natural origin, making it a suitable choice for eco-conscious formulations.
  • COSMOS Compliant: Complies with COSMOS standards, ensuring it meets stringent requirements for organic and natural cosmetics.

Spheron LP-230

INCI: Silica

Spheron LP-230 is an exceptional silica designed to tackle high moisture and sebum absorption, making it an ideal ingredient for creating sunscreens that offer a smooth and dry-after feel. This innovative silica not only enhances the sensory experience of sun care products but also provides significant functional benefits, including skin blurring and SPF boosting. Suitable for use levels between 1-10%, Spheron LP-230 is a powerful addition to any advanced sunscreen formulation.

Key Benefits:

  • Instant Skin Blurring Properties: Spheron LP-230 delivers immediate skin blurring effects, reducing the appearance of fine lines and imperfections for a flawless complexion.
  • SPF Boosting Efficacy: By enhancing the SPF of sunscreens, Spheron LP-230 improves UV protection without the need to increase the concentration of traditional UV filters.
  • Improved Sensory Experience: This ingredient ensures a smooth, dry-after feel, enhancing the overall sensory attributes of the sunscreen and making it more pleasant to apply and wear.

Challenges and Solutions

Incorporating SPF boosters into sunscreen formulations can present several challenges. However, with the right strategies, these obstacles can be effectively managed to create high-performing, consumer-friendly products. Here’s an overview of common challenges and practical solutions:

Common Challenges

  1. Compatibility Issues:
    • Challenge: Ensuring that SPF boosters are compatible with the existing UV filters and other formulation ingredients can be difficult. Incompatibility can lead to instability, reduced efficacy, or undesirable changes in texture and appearance.
    • Solution: Conduct thorough compatibility testing during the formulation process. Use stable combinations of UV filters and boosters, and consider using antioxidants like Vitamin E to enhance the stability of the formulation.
  2. Formulation Stability:
    • Challenge: Maintaining the stability of the sunscreen formulation, particularly under UV exposure, can be challenging. Photostability is crucial for ensuring that the product remains effective throughout its use.
    • Solution: Use photostable UV filters and boosters. Incorporate antioxidants and stabilizers that prevent the degradation of active ingredients. Perform rigorous photostability testing to ensure long-term efficacy.
  3. Sensory Attributes:
    • Challenge: Adding SPF boosters can sometimes alter the texture and feel of the sunscreen, making it less appealing to consumers. Heavy or greasy formulations are often less desirable.
    • Solution: Select SPF boosters that enhance, rather than compromise, the sensory properties of the product. Ingredients like Spheron 20MB and Chiffonsil P3-R can improve spreadability and skin feel while providing SPF boosting benefits. Adjust the formulation to balance efficacy with a pleasant sensory experience.
  4. White Cast in Mineral Sunscreens:
    • Challenge: Mineral sunscreens with ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide can leave a white cast on the skin, which is often undesirable, especially for darker skin tones.
    • Solution: Use micronized or coated versions of mineral UV filters to reduce the white cast. Incorporate tinting agents and SPF boosters like silica beads that improve transparency and blendability.
  5. Cost and Formulation Complexity:
    • Challenge: Incorporating multiple SPF boosters can increase the cost and complexity of the formulation process. This can be a barrier for small-scale producers or new product lines.
    • Solution: Optimize the use of cost-effective SPF boosters that provide multiple benefits, such as enhanced SPF, improved texture, and stability. Streamline the formulation process by selecting multifunctional ingredients.

Practical Solutions

  1. Layering Boosters:
    • Approach: Use a combination of SPF boosters to achieve synergistic effects. For example, combining antioxidants with silica beads can enhance both photostability and sensory properties.
    • Benefit: Layering boosters can provide comprehensive benefits without requiring high concentrations of each individual ingredient.
  2. Advanced Mixing Techniques:
    • Approach: Employ high-shear mixing and homogenization techniques to ensure uniform dispersion of SPF boosters and UV filters.
    • Benefit: Advanced mixing techniques enhance the consistency and efficacy of the sunscreen, ensuring even protection and improved texture.
  3. Consumer Testing:
    • Approach: Conduct consumer trials to gather feedback on the sensory attributes and overall performance of the sunscreen. Use this feedback to refine the formulation.
    • Benefit: Consumer testing helps ensure that the final product meets user expectations for feel, appearance, and effectiveness.
  4. Regulatory Compliance:
    • Approach: Stay updated on regulatory guidelines for sunscreen ingredients and formulations in different markets. Ensure that all SPF boosters and UV filters comply with relevant regulations.
    • Benefit: Regulatory compliance ensures product safety and marketability, preventing legal and commercial issues.

By addressing these challenges with targeted solutions, formulators can successfully incorporate SPF boosters into sunscreens, creating products that offer superior protection, stability, and user satisfaction. Through careful selection, testing, and optimization, SPF boosters can significantly enhance the performance and appeal of sunscreen formulations.