How to Choose the Right Rheology Modifier for Your Cosmetic Formulation

In cosmetic formulation, achieving the desired texture, stability, and performance of a product requires careful consideration of rheology modifiers. These critical ingredients control viscosity, enhance sensory attributes, and ensure formulation stability, making them indispensable in a wide range of personal care applications. Selecting the right rheology modifier is not merely a matter of thickening; it influences spreadability, clarity, suspension capabilities, and long-term product integrity.

One of the most common challenges formulators encounter is balancing viscosity, clarity, and electrolyte tolerance while maintaining ease of processing. Using an unsuitable rheology modifier can lead to inconsistent texture, poor dispersion, or incompatibilities with other ingredients, ultimately affecting product efficacy and consumer perception.

The AQUPEC® collection of rheology modifiers offers solutions tailored to these challenges. Designed to provide high clarity, superior electrolyte tolerance, and enhanced processing efficiency, AQUPEC® products offer a range of options to meet the needs of modern formulations. Whether working with self-wetting polymers for improved dispersion, pre-neutralized options for streamlined processing, or high-electrolyte-tolerance grades for challenging systems, formulators can leverage the AQUPEC® portfolio to enhance both performance and formulation efficiency.

Rheology modifiers are essential ingredients in cosmetic and personal care formulations, responsible for controlling viscosity, texture, and stability. Their primary function is to adjust the flow properties of a formulation, ensuring that the final product has the desired thickness, spreadability, and application feel. Beyond thickening, rheology modifiers play a crucial role in stabilizing emulsions and suspensions, preventing phase separation, and optimizing the sensory experience for the end user.

Adjusting Viscosity

• Viscosity dictates how a product spreads and behaves during application.
• High-viscosity formulations provide a rich, cushiony feel, ideal for creams and gels.
• Low-viscosity formulations offer a lightweight, fluid texture, common in serums and sprays.

Enhancing Texture & Feel

• Rheology modifiers influence the sensory characteristics of a product, from silky, smooth gliding to rich, luxurious cushioning.
• They also contribute to properties such as bounciness, softness, and lightness, affecting consumer perception and experience.

Stabilizing Emulsions & Suspensions

• In emulsions, rheology modifiers help maintain a uniform distribution of oil and water phases, preventing separation or syneresis.
• In suspensions, they ensure that active ingredients, pigments, or exfoliating agents remain evenly dispersed, avoiding sedimentation over time.

When selecting a rheology modifier, it’s important to understand the differences between Carbomers and Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymers, as they impact viscosity, electrolyte tolerance, and ease of use.

When to Use Each Type

• Use Carbomers when you need high clarity and a strong gel structure, especially in serums, gels, and emulsions where thickening is critical.
• Use Acrylates Crosspolymers when electrolyte resistance, ease of dispersion, or unique textures (like bounciness or lightness) are needed.

Selecting the appropriate rheology modifier requires careful consideration of viscosity, clarity, and electrolyte tolerance to achieve the desired performance in a formulation. The AQUPEC® collection offers a range of solutions tailored to different formulation needs, from high-clarity gels to electrolyte-resistant systems and specialty textures. Below is a breakdown of the key AQUPEC® grades and their ideal applications.

AQUPEC® HV-801EG-300 & HV-805EG-300

These high-clarity carbomers are designed for easy dispersion and superior handling compared to traditional carbomer powders. Their ability to create crystal-clear gels makes them ideal for transparent formulations where aesthetics and performance are critical.

Key Benefits:

• Excellent clarity in water-based formulations
• Easy dispersion and handling compared to standard carbomers
• Provides high yield value, ensuring stable and structured gels

Best for:

• Clear serums and high-visibility gels
• Transparent skincare and personal care formulations

AQUPEC® HV-701EDR & HV-803ERK

Formulators working with electrolyte-heavy formulations often face challenges in maintaining viscosity and stability. These acrylates crosspolymers provide higher electrolyte tolerance than standard carbomers, ensuring formulation integrity even in the presence of active ingredients, surfactants, or salts.

Key Benefits:

• Superior electrolyte resistance, maintaining viscosity even in challenging formulations
• High yield value, making them effective for stabilizing emulsions and suspensions
• Enhanced clarity, ensuring aesthetic appeal

Best for:

• Sunscreens and formulations containing mineral actives
• Electrolyte-heavy formulations with high active loads

AQUPEC® SW-705ER

One of the biggest challenges in formulation is ensuring uniform dispersion of rheology modifiers, as many traditional polymers require careful hydration to prevent clumping. AQUPEC® SW-705ER is a self-wetting cross-polymer, offering fast dispersion and easy incorporation into formulations, significantly reducing processing time.

Key Benefits:

• Self-wetting, eliminating the need for pre-hydration steps
• Fast dispersion, allowing for efficient processing
• Maintains high clarity and stability

Best for:

• Quick-processing formulations, where time efficiency is critical
• High-production manufacturing, ensuring batch consistency

AQUPEC® MG N40R

For formulators looking to create lightweight, soft-focus, and mattifying textures, AQUPEC® MG N40R provides pre-neutralized rheology modification. This allows for seamless incorporation into emulsions, improving application aesthetics and user experience.

Key Benefits:

• Pre-neutralized, simplifying formulation processing
• Provides a soft-focus, mattifying effect
• Lightweight, smooth texture with a moisturizing feel

Best for:

• Lightweight lotions, primers, and skincare products
• Mattifying and soft-focus formulations

AQUPEC® SER W-300C

If a bouncy, cushion-like texture is desired, AQUPEC® SER W-300C is an electrolyte-dependent polymer that requires the presence of salts to thicken. This unique characteristic allows for innovative sensorial experiences in hydrating gels and other personal care applications.

Key Benefits:

• Creates a bouncy, cushion-like texture
• Works synergistically with electrolytes and surfactants
• Adds a unique, playful sensory experience to formulations

Best for:

• Hydrating gels and sensory-driven skincare applications
• Unique textures that enhance consumer appeal