Making Mineral Sunscreens Better: Boosting SPF Without Boosting Opacity

Mineral sunscreens are growing in demand, but the tradeoff between high SPF and visible white cast continues to frustrate both formulators and consumers. In a recent study presented by the R&D team at Presperse, including Dr. Daphne Benderly and Jamie Eldridge, a new path forward is explored: using SPF boosting powders to achieve high UV protection with less mineral filter, and ultimately, less opacity on skin.

This research evaluated multiple powders—primarily silica- and cellulose-based—across both mixed mineral (Zinc Oxide + Titanium Dioxide) and Zinc Oxide-only systems. Key findings show that:

• SPF values of 60+ were achieved with as little as 20% Zinc Oxide when paired with specific boosters like Calcium Sodium Borosilicate and Microcrystalline Cellulose.
• Reducing UV filter load decreases the whitening effect on skin.
• Processing method (in-process vs. post-add) impacts SPF results, suggesting the need for optimization during formulation.

Importantly, many of the evaluated powders are naturally derived and align with ISO 16128 standards, supporting current clean beauty expectations.

“Formulators now have more flexibility—both in aesthetic finish and SPF performance—by incorporating the right boosters at the right time,” says Dr. Daphne Benderly.

This research provides clear, practical insights for formulators looking to enhance product usability while meeting regulatory and consumer demands.

Read the full article and study results

Originally published in 2025 by Personal Care Magazine